Tuesday, July 21, 2015

An Expedition to Katmai

Brooks falls is one of those amazing places where the confluence of events leads to spectacular nature viewing:

In this case it is the salmon run, a small waterfall that slows them down, and the proximity of many, many brown bears (also known as grizzly bears).

I am sure you have seen the videos of the bears feeding there, or perhaps even watched the Bear Cam.

There is nothing like seeing it live.

Now, it is not really easy to get to. You have to take a float plane:


 which are not really easy to get into:


and sometimes you have to keep track of the gauges:


and it is really crowded, and your wife has to sit back in coach behind some arm stealers:


and the runway is a problem:


But the views are great. This is salt water coming up the Cook Inlet mixing with fresh water coming
off the glaciers.


The views are spectacular:


Really spectacular:


The color of the freshwater lakes is determined by the minerals being washed down from the mountain glaciers:


You can see one of the glaciers here. You get a good view of the median moraines:


You can see the results of a retreating glacier here: (terminal moraines and such)


 and fantastic braided streams:


and sun dogs! If you look closely, you can see the shadow of the plane in the middle of the sun dog.


We got to the Katmai National Park and had to go to "Bear School" (I got a pin to prove it! You can see it on the right side of my hat below) and we were just walking to the viewing platform when the ranger started herding us all back to this little bit of grass (The little triangle at the fork):


because a bear was coming. A sow with FOUR CUBS! Sow 402.



We got on the grass with all the other campers. None of us wanted to be eaten or even mauled.

At this point I didn't really know what to expect, but here comes a bear! Mere feet away from us, walking with her cubs:


Then she started playing with one:

Just like Wild Kingdom!

She eventually let us pass, and we wandered on back to the Bear Viewing Platform.

They have two platforms open. A "no limit" platform, where you can just go and hang out as long as you want, and the "Brooks Falls" platform that only holds 40 people, and you are limited to an hour viewing. We were lucky, there was only about a two minute wait for us to get onto the Brooks Falls platform.

And it was spectacular.


You will see more bears eating more salmon than you ever thought possible.

This bear below must have caught about 15 salmon in the hour we were there. We learned that he is the alpha bear in the area, named 856. He sits in the water and waits, it looks like he is feeling with his feet. Every now and then he just dips his head in and grabs a fish.

Sometime he just eats it where he is sitting, other times he just takes it a few steps away. In any case he strips off and east the skin, maybe one or two other bites, and then lets the carcass float away. Much to the joy of the glaucous  wing gulls. I have never seen better fed gulls in my life.

We named 856 "Piggy Bear". He lives a good bear life.


Other bears would sometimes jump on the salmon. Less efficient from a calories in vs calories out basis, but you need the right spot. And Piggy Bear had that spot.


The younger bears spent more time walking around


But you could see a lot of fish jumping. We talked to one ranger who said they do regular fish counts. The most she has seen jump in a minute is 118, but the record is something like 200. We were seeing about 30 a minute.



The little bears also spent a lot of time on the land.


Bears would just eat and eat and eat


and the gulls just watched and waited. Amazingly enough, there were not thousands of the gulls.


They are good looking animals


This guy went to the top of the falls, and would grab the poor salmon as they jumped.


and the would carry them to the bank and eat them.


We started rooting for the salmon. They have a hard life.

We saw bear spoor as we walked back to the beach.


 and a Spruce Grouse. But we wanted it to be a ptarmigan.


Plenty of moose antlers here


This was a recreation of an Aluet house. The Russians were terrible, terrible to the Aluets.


Here we are, getting ready to fly back:


Good view of a glacier:

Another view:

 Here you can sort of see the blue ice the glaciers produce:


Back in Anchorage!


An Expedition to the Chugosh Mountains

We arrived quite late to the Roe House. They were very generous to have supper ready and the kids awake very late. It was really great to see everyone.

The next morning a hike to Flattop Mountain was the plan. Little did Doreen or I know that this is the profile of the hike:

But we were game!

After all, the kids were being carried up the mountain by their folks:


SO off we went.

It started off nice and easy. (Oh, I would usually have a Runkeeper profile here. But something when wrong with that technology. Sorry, you'll just have to believe me)



and we walked through some nice hemlock forests:


Beautiful views of the Cook Inlet:


and the Chugosh Mountains



Which we took in with our new binoculars!


The views got better as we got higher


and I was very impressed that Josienne and Jared could carry those kids up without tumbling down the mountain:

(looking where they may be tumbling)


(Great view of Anchorage)


We got to one of the saddles and took a well deserved water break.


and this is what we had to look forward to:

So we kept at it
 and kept at it

The views on the back side of the mountain was just as good as the front side:


and each time we came to a saddle we rested


We had a movie star with us.

and we kept going up!

This part of the trail was pretty good.


But it turned into scree at the top. This is where you had to use your hands. Climbing, not hiking.


But we summited!
 Fantastic views
 Excelsior!
A good day.

Quick post about Flying TO our Expedition in Alaska

Our flight was on United. And it was late.

But I repeat myself.

We did get some views out the window:

Denali

Basin and Range

Mt Hood?

Lake Texoma

Snowy Peaks

Glaciers (more to come!)

Water.

Other than being 90 minutes late, with another 30 minutes tagged on by not having a gate at the end, it was an ok flight.

Saturday, July 18, 2015

The Start of an Expedition to Alaska

We are flying today to Anchorage.

The flight leaves about 3:00 PM CDT, arrives about 7:30 AKDT (that is Alaska Daylight Savings Time). We rent a car and drive to the Generous Roe House until Wednesday.

We are looking forward to this trip!


It is sort of hard to pack for a four week trip, which includes a wedding at the end.

I feel like a cheechako.