We arrived in Rome on a Wednesday. I can tell you this –
Flying Vueling, even on a one hour flight, is not fun. But regardless, we
arrived in Rome and got to our apartment near the Piazza del Popolo about 5:00
PM. We had “early” reservations at Rochioli (http://www.salumeriaroscioli.com/)
for 7:30, and though a little tired, we charged ahead.
And we were very happy we did. One of the highlights of the
trip. We started with “Mortadella and Parmesan from Red Cows” and it was
spectacular. It is amazing to think that our humble bologna comes from
something as delicious as this. But I suppose it does. We followed up with
“Cacio e Pepe” and “La Carbonara” which the two of us shared.
Mortadella
The C&P used a Tonnarello pasta (sort of twisty) and the
Carbonara used Spaghettone – a fat straight pasta. When done correctly, Cacio e
Pepe is an emulsification of the olive oil, cheese, sometimes cream that coats
the pasta perfectly. This one was done right. A sharp bite from the pepper, a
smoothness from the sauce, and all you wanted to do was eat more.
Cacio e Pepe
But you couldn’t because you also wanted to eat the
Carbonara. Which, in the true Roman tradition, used guanciale (using bacon,
while delicious, is not either tradition or really quite as delicious) that had
been fried crispy. Not sure how many eggs they used, but this sauce, too, was
perfectly emulsified. Fantastic.
Carbonara
Following the pasta we ordered fried anchovies and meatballs.
That is two separate dishes, not “fried anchovies and meatballs”. Both good and
tasty, neither as good as the pasta.
Meatballs
Fried Anchovies
We bought a wine recommended by the waiter, I can’t think of
what it was. But it was a white Italian, light and crispy, and very good.
We were so full we skipped desert.
The next day we had lunch at an old favorite, The Trattoria
Lilli (http://www.trattorialilli.it/)
which we had first experienced back in 2000. We have eaten there several times,
but this lunch was just not that good. We both got the Cacio e Pepe, and the
sauce was barely emulsified, it lacked any peppery punch, and the spaghetini
that they used as a pasta just didn’t stand up. We have had good meals here in
the past, so we don’t want to write it off. But there are better options.
Cacio e Pepe
For example, for dinner that evening (our 14th
anniversary!) we ate at the Giuda Ballerino (http://www.giudaballerino.com/) a
modern take on Italian food.
We each got the “Dylan Dog” tasting menu, which was five
courses of “The Most Representative Dishes” accompanied by a wine tasting of
four wines. The menu was €90, the wine €65. While not cheap, certainly not as
expensive as other meals available. There were
two other tasting menus available here, another five course of “recent
proposals” and the Chef’s selection of seven courses. The waiter steered us
away from the seven course meal, saying it was too much.
Even the five course was a lot.
There was an amuse bouche of a delightful little arancini,
basically a fried rice ball. Our bouches were amused. Then the menu started in
earnest.
First prawn skewers wrapped in phyllo dough and fried,
alongside a mortadella mousse in an espresso cup. Combine them, eat them
separately, it was all delicious.
Phyllo wrapped Prawn
Next was tempura fried scallops with squid ink, coconut
milk, and bacon. You had sort of a thai-old South-Amalfi Coast thing going
there.
Tempura fried scallops
The pasta was again Cacio e Pepe. Are you beginning to see a
theme here? This one was a more standard noodle (fat spaghetti) but was
finished with “Mussel dust” and fried mint. AN excellent presentation
Cacio e Pepe
The second plate was lamb – a fried lamb chop and some
roasted lamb as well.
I really don’t remember the desserts. There were two, along
with some Happy Anniversary chocolate cake.
A fantastic meal.
The next day for lunch we stopped at another old favorite of
ours – Target Ristorane (you might want to turn your speakers down if you click
through: http://www.targetrestaurant.it/
). It is sort of out of the way – close to Termini – but if you are in that
neighborhood you should stop by. There may have been one other table of
non-Italians there (we were there for lunch) and everyone was having a great
meal. It is sort of a business lunch place. (Ask for the lunch menu if you go
at lunch). We shared a couple of pizzas. When you are finished, you just note
your table number and pay at the door. A sensible meal.
For dinner that night we ate at Nino’s (http://www.ristorantenino.it/) not
really that far from the Spanish Steps. It feels really old-fashioned. We had
no problem getting a table, but I know that they do take reservations. Simple
meal – a meat anti-pasto (excellent) and then one of us ordered poorly and one
ordered well. I mean, doesn’t “Chicken fried Tuscan Style – With Bones” sound
good? Well, it wasn’t. Don’t order it. But the Eggplant Parmesan was excellent.
One more day in Rome, two more restaurants!
For lunch the next day we ate at Ditirombo (http://www.ristoranteditirambo.it/)
near the Campo de Fiori. Oh, what a great place! Try to get here if you can. We
had an eggplant mouse sort of thing as an appetizer, and then Cacio e Pepe
(Last time, I swear) and a Ravioli with Spinach and Riccota. This was one of
the top two Cacio e Pepes that we have had. The Ravioli was good, too!
Cacio e Pepe (but you know that by now)
Ravioli
And finally (yes, I think we gained weight) we had dinner at
Marzapana. (http://www.marzapaneroma.com/)
It was out of the way (we took a bus) but worth the distance. Another tasting
menu, but a real bargain at €39. And we got a €38 bottle of wine as well. The
menu went something like this:
Amuse bouche was a codfish fritter. One of us loved these
fritters, the other is less impressed. But this was excellent for both of us.
A bowl of spiced
pork belly with spices.
Tortillini in a
paprika broth with octopus. You just wanted to lick the bowl when this one was
done.
Oh! I forgot to
mention the bread! This place has a real baker, something missing in almost all
Italian restaurants. Great bread and pastries. Yes, they even use salt in their
bread!
They then served
something they called Carbonara 2013. This of the best carbonara you have ever
had. You are probably thinking of the carbonara from Rochioli. Then think of
it, only better. That was this dish.
Then, only the menu
description serves: Pork shin,
potatoes and pepperoni, roasted garlic cream.
Pork shin. As delicious as it sounds. The potatoes were like
a gallette. Very impressive.
A pre-dessert of lemon ice cream followed by a chocolate
hazelnut “real” dessert. We had a wine recommended by the wine steward, another
white Italian. (It was hot this trip)
Go here and you will be happy.
Finally, a quick note about Café St Eustache. Some of the
best espresso I have ever had. Close to the Pantheon. Enjoy!
